Arrived at Johannesburg International Airport about 8 AM. Just had time to go through customs (quite easily done); grab our dreaded duffel (just as easily done); and find Dave from OAT (Overseas Adventure Travel). We couldn't believe how easily we managed through the airport, especially after all the trouble we had at the Kenya Airport last year.
By 10 AM we were at Lanseria Airport, where we were introduced to our pilot,Wehan and his co-pilot, handsome Rob. We hopped onto our little 12-seater plane for the 1-1/2 hour flight into Pafuri Camp in Kruger National Park. Most of us were lulled into naps from the steady drone of the engines and the overcast skies. Every now and then we would hear a series of beeps from the console - unsure if that was something we needed to be concerned with - but since the guys didn't appear to be worried, we figured we didn't have to worry either. After about 45 minutes, the skies cleared up and we were able to fly at a lower altitude, which was very cool until we approached the dirt runway. From my seat on the plane - the second row - that landing strip didn't look much longer than a football field. I had visions of us zooming off the far end into the trees - crashing to an ugly, painful death. Then I thought of all the movies I've seen featuring drug lords, smugglers and other low-lifes flying in and out of the same type of hidden landing strip, deep in the Amazon rainforests of Columbia, or all those Vietnam movies featuring heroic rescues against impossible odds. But we were not destined to meet our demise. Instead Wehan made a very smooth, very confident landing with more than enough runway to spare. There were about 5 people who watched us land. They boarded after we deplaned, and Wehan piloted them back to Lanseria Airport in Johannesburg. To say we were out in the middle of absolute nowhere would NOT be an exaggeration. We saw no signs of civilization (at least the 2-footed kind) for as far as the eye could see.
We knew we would like Jeffrey, our expert guide and tracker, when the first comment out of his mouth was about the "natural pistol" on the first of what would be hundreds of impalas we would see.
Then, after about 10 minutes in the jeep, we drove into the entrance of Pafuri Camp, managed by Wilderness Safaris. There were 3 staff members waiting to greet us with juice and wet washcloths to wipe away the dust. We followed Millet (one of the female staff members) to a small cluster of chairs in the outdoor lobby area overlooking the Luvuvhu River. It was an amazing view from a simple yet elegant setting.
After Millet reviewed the camp guidelines and guided us in filling out the room registration forms, she had us all follow her to Peyton & Sharon's "tent" so she could show us all the features at one time instead of repeating herself over and over. (The reason I am enclosing the word, tent, in quotation marks, is that these tents were not the kind of tent I envisioned - you know, the canvas, barely-large enough for 2 adults kind that you have trouble assembling on hard, uneven, rocky ground).
The "tents" were accessed by an 11.4 mile long, raised wooden boardwalk designed to keep visitors away from the animals that roamed below us, beside us and with us if you forgot to latch your door after leaving. The monkeys and baboons in the camp were so bold they would snatch anything you left outside on your veranda - cameras, snacks, clothing - some had even been spotted wearing bras that had been hung outside to dry! Our veranda faced the Luvuvhu river, where within 5 minutes of our arrival, we were treated to the sight of a huge elephant eating the day's meal very placidly and a crocodile lazily sunning itself. Monkeys and impala, kudu and nyala antelope surrounded the tent, going about their daily business of eating, grooming and babysitting. The birds were especially active during the day, singing, fighting and mating within 30 feet of the tent.
The beds were easily the most wonderful feature of the tent, especially after 2 nights of trying to sleep in an upright position in a cramped, economy-class seat (with the children's chorus behind us). Since it was winter and the nights were chilly, we jumped into bed in our thermal underwear and socks and snugged in under the incredible cocoon of duvets and covers. No wonder we were so reluctant to climb out at 5:30 AM to begin our day with breakfast followed by a morning safari.
The double bathroom sinks (a feature I don't even have at home) were quite luxurious. Iris took one and I claimed the other. All hot water was heated by the solar panels just outside the tent.
As mentioned earlier, there was both an inside and outside shower with a glass door between them. If inside, you had to make sure to latch the door unless you wanted to share your shower with all of nature's critters that happened to be in the neighborhood that day.
So, at 3 PM we began our daily, quite civilized ritual of afternoon tea, afternoon safari and incredibly delicious dinner. Two of the really nice safari touches featured individual, toasty blankets and a happy hour which included one complimentary drink + appetizers elegantly served from the pull-up tray attached to the front bumper of the jeep. We saw impalas by the hundreds, baboons, warthogs, nyala antelope, elephants, crocodiles, Burchell's zebras (donkeys in pajamas), guinea hens, lion prides at dark and hippos. One of the more interesting smells we noticed was that of the potato bush, which really was as fragrant and mouth watering as a baked potato.
Jeffrey prepares the evening safari happy hour cocktails.
Late, fantastically delicious dinners featured "love bites" - little, single-serving appetizers. Entrees were presented under stainless steel lids, which were ceremoniously opened on the count of three. Desserts were out of this world!
We were lucky enough to be granted an increase in total luggage weight from a combined total of 26 lbs. to 44 lbs. We were also lucky enough to have complimentary laundry service during the main part of the trip, which was 15 days. Since the local people did not wash personal items (bras and underwear, which they called "your smalls"), because of cultural reasons, the biggest challenge for packing was what to do about the underwear issue. Iris bought disposable underwear and I used the pantie liners (TMI I realize, but great info to have if you are under such constraints). Iris managed to make her disposable underwear last 2 1/2-3 days (see photo). I used pantie liners, which were much lighter to pack and took up very little space.
Disposable panties ready for the trash.
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